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Kostymguide – 9 tips inför val av kostym

 

Suit up! Det är dags att ge sig in i kostymdjungeln. Men vilken ska man välja och hur stylas den bäst? Vi har pratat med Emanuel Grau som är Department Manager på Afound. Här är hans bästa tips när du ska välja kostym.

Vilken modell passar mig?

 

Jag tycker att man ska välja passform efter hur man ser ut. De senaste säsongerna har de allra största modehusen fortsatt visa kostymer som är lite oversize och har en lösare passform. För att en kostym ska passa många tillfällen tycker jag att det är viktigt att den inte är för smal, men inte heller för löst sittande.

Det viktigaste när man väljer kostym är att ta hjälp av en vän eller kunnig säljare. Utgå ifrån hur kavajen sitter över axlarna. När man står avslappnad bör tyget över ryggen inte strama. Då har man ett bra utgångsläge, resten går att åtgärda med hjälp av en skräddare.

Byxorna ska inte sitta för smalt över låren och vaderna. Runt midjan brukar det vara enkelt att justera både upp och ner en storlek hos skräddaren. En kostym som sitter rätt håller längre så du tjänar på att få den justerad.

Vilket material ska jag välja?

 

Mitt råd är att alltid välja en kostym i ull eller ullblandning som fungerar året runt. Ull har en fantastisk andningsförmåga och passar bra även under sommaren. Ull blandat med elastan eller polyester gör kostymen mer slittålig, vilket är bra om du använder kostym till vardags.

 

Vilken färg ska jag välja på kostymen?

 

Om man bara ska ha en kostym eller kavaj i garderoben är mitt råd att välja en marinblå eller mörkgrå sådan, men det beror även på tillfälle. Är kostymen enbart för fest och högtider tycker jag att man ska välja en marinblå. Om man däremot ska ha den på jobbet tycker jag att mörkgrå gör sig bäst.

 

Hur stylar jag kostymen till vardags?

 

Till vardags byter du bara skjorta och slips mot en t-shirt eller pikétröja för att få en avslappnad look. Det kan räcka med att ha en ledigare skjorta utan slips för att se mer casual ut. Nu till hösten och vintern använder jag själv ofta en finstickad polotröja till kostymen och varierar skorna istället. Finare skor för att klä upp kostymen och till exempel sneakers för en sportigare look.

Tips! Kommer du att använda kostymen dagligen är mitt tips att köpa två par kostymbyxor och växla mellan dem. Byxor slits fortare än kavajer.

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Hur stylar jag kostymen till fest?

 

Det beror på tillfället men om man ska på fest är mitt råd att alltid ta reda på om det finns en dress code, vilken man självklart ska respektera. Annars är det viktigaste att se hel och ren ut med putsade och vårdade skor.

 

Klädkod kostym - så klär du dig rätt

 

Kavaj: Får du en inbjudan med klädkod kavaj betyder det att du ska ha kostym och slips eller fluga men att du kan vara en aning mer ledig än med mörk kostym. Du kan alltså välja en valfri färg på din kostym, skjorta och slips eller fluga. Här kan det vara roligt att välja en ljus kostym på sommarhalvåret!

 

Udda kavaj: Står det däremot udda kavaj på din inbjudan behöver du inte ha kostym, alltså samma tyg och färg på både byxor och kavaj utan kan välja själv hur du vill matcha din kavaj.

 

Mörk kostym: När det är mörk kostym som gäller i klädkod är det ett krav att du bär just en mörk kostym med slips eller fluga.

 

Smoking: När smoking gäller är det enda alternativet. En smoking kan vara grå, mörkblå eller svart med vit skjorta och svart fluga.

 

Frack: Frack är den finaste klädkoden och till en frack bärs vit väst och vit fluga.

Ska jag ha accessoarer till?

 

Jag tycker aldrig att man kan ha för många bröstnäsdukar. Det är det enklaste sättet att ge mer variation till kavajen. Annars använder jag bälten för att variera uttryck. Ska du ha på dig slips är det vanliga att man väljer en slips som är mörkare än skjortan. Bröstnäsduken behöver inte vara i exakt samma färg eller mönster som slipsen.

 

Ska jag ha en väska till kostymen?

 

För att kostymen ska hålla längre rekommenderar jag varmt att alltid ha en väska, enbart av anledningen att man inte ska förvara saker i fickorna. Kostymer är inte tillverkade för att bära på mer än smala, lätta föremål. Som mest rekommenderar jag att man förvarar mobiltelefon och/eller ett kortet i innerbröstfickan på kavajen. Kavajens passform förstörs och fickorna blir bylsiga om man ofta förvarar saker i dem.

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Se fler TRENDRAPPORTER, STYLINGTIPS,

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